Every year, on the 5th of November, the small town of Ottery St Mary in Devon comes alive with a spectacle as dramatic as it is dangerous. The Flaming Tar Barrels, a tradition that dates back centuries, sees locals hoisting burning barrels of tar onto their shoulders and parading them through the streets. It’s a sight that defies logic, thrills spectators and leaves a lingering smell of smoke and history in the air. If you’ve ever wondered what it’s like to watch a town willingly set itself on fire, this is the event for you.
A Tradition Shrouded in Smoke and Mystery
The origins of the Flaming Tar Barrels remain unclear. Some believe it began in the 17th century as part of Guy Fawkes Night celebrations. Others think it has older roots, tied to ancient rituals meant to ward off evil spirits. Whatever its beginnings, the event has become a defining feature of Ottery St Mary. It’s a tradition that has survived wars, changing times and the occasional raised eyebrow from health and safety officials.
The barrels themselves are no ordinary containers. Locals soak them in tar, a sticky, flammable substance that clings to the wood and burns fiercely. Once lit, the barrels are carried through the streets by locals who seem to possess a unique blend of bravery and madness. These “barrel rollers” are the heart of the event and their participation is a badge of honour in the community.
The Night of Fire
The event takes place on Bonfire Night, a date already associated with fireworks and general pyromania. However, Ottery St Mary takes things to another level. The evening begins with anticipation as crowds gather in the narrow streets. The smell of tar mingles with the scent of hot food from stalls selling pasties and burgers. The atmosphere is electric.
The barrels are lit one by one, their flames casting flickering shadows on the faces of the crowd. First, the children carry smaller barrels with a mix of excitement and trepidation. As the night progresses, the barrels grow larger and the rollers grow older. Women and men take their turns, each group adding its own energy to the event. The sight of a flaming barrel being carried at a run through the streets is both thrilling and slightly terrifying. It’s a reminder of the fine line between celebration and chaos.
The barrels are heavy, the flames are hot and the streets are crowded. It’s not for the faint-hearted. But for the rollers, it’s a chance to be part of something bigger than themselves. For the spectators, it’s a chance to witness a spectacle that feels both ancient and immediate.
The Rollers: A Local Brotherhood (and Sisterhood)
Carrying a flaming tar barrel is not something you can just decide to do on a whim. The rollers are a select group. They are made up of locals who were either born in Ottery St Mary or have lived there for many years. It’s a tradition passed down through families, with fathers teaching sons, mothers teaching daughters and everyone sharing stories of past triumphs and near-misses.
The rollers wear thick gloves and protective clothing, but there’s only so much you can do to protect yourself from a barrel of burning tar. The heat is intense, the smoke is thick and the weight of the barrel is a constant challenge. Yet, for those who take part, the experience is worth it. There’s a sense of pride that comes from carrying a barrel, a feeling of being part of something that has endured for generations.
The event is divided into categories based on age and gender, with separate races for children, women and men. Each group brings its own energy to the night, from the wide-eyed excitement of the youngest rollers to the determined focus of the adults. It’s a reminder that this is a tradition for everyone, a celebration that brings the whole town together.
Preparation and Safety: A Delicate Balance
Preparing for the Flaming Tar Barrels is no small task. Locals carefully prepare the barrels in advance, applying tar to the inside to ensure they burn properly. On the night, they light the barrels using a combination of kindling and paraffin, creating a flame that is both fierce and unpredictable.
Safety is, of course, a major concern. The Ottery St Mary Tar Barrels Committee organises the event, working tirelessly to ensure everything runs smoothly. They coordinate with emergency services, set up barriers to keep the crowds at a safe distance and provide first aid stations in case of accidents. It’s a delicate balance between preserving tradition and ensuring no one gets hurt, but so far, they’ve managed to pull it off.
A Community United by Fire
The Flaming Tar Barrels is more than just a spectacle; it’s a celebration of community. The event brings the town together, from the rollers who carry the barrels to the volunteers who organise it and the spectators who come to watch. It’s a reminder of the power of tradition, of the way a shared experience can bind people together and create a sense of belonging.
For the people of Ottery St Mary, the Flaming Tar Barrels is a point of pride, a tradition that sets them apart from other towns. It’s a symbol of their resilience, their willingness to hold onto something unique even as the world changes around them. And for visitors, it’s a chance to witness something truly extraordinary, a tradition that feels both ancient and alive.
A Tourist Attraction with a Fiery Heart
In recent years, the Flaming Tar Barrels has become a major tourist attraction, drawing visitors from across the UK and beyond. People come to see the spectacle, to feel the heat of the flames and the energy of the crowd. But they also come to experience something real, a tradition that hasn’t been sanitised or commercialised, that feels authentic and raw.
The event has its critics, of course. Some argue that it’s too dangerous, that the risks outweigh the rewards. But for the people of Ottery St Mary, the Flaming Tar Barrels is worth it. It’s a part of who they are, a tradition that connects them to their past and to each other.
Conclusion: A Tradition That Burns Bright
The Flaming Tar Barrels of Ottery St Mary is a tradition that defies easy explanation. It’s dangerous, it’s chaotic and it’s utterly captivating. It’s a reminder of the power of fire, of the way it can bring people together and create something unforgettable. And it’s a tribute to the resilience of tradition. And to the way a small town can hold onto something unique and make it thrive.
So if you find yourself in Devon on the 5th of November, make your way to Ottery St Mary. Stand in the crowd and feel the heat of the flames. Watch as the town comes alive with fire and pride. It’s a sight you won’t forget, a tradition that burns bright in the heart of Devon.